new kp07

[davr0]

thanks to steve for great comunacation and price im now the proud owner of a new KP07s-2 pro which ive just started to build and looks awesome

thanks again steve

im building it from a tt so if anyone wants to fire any building tips at me fire away

[Steve Leake]

It should all go together nice and smoothly. Things where I would spend some time are:

i) The wheel needs to mount on the front axle with no play, otherwise you'll suffer from headshakes and/or binding forks. I use a grub screw inside the non-brake side of the axle to act as a stop for the wheel bolt and some 6mm shims on the axle to get it all working nicely.
ii) The steering linkage and headstock need to be nice and free with no binding what so ever. Take your time fitting the steering servo and getting it all spaced correctly. First time round it takes a bit of time but if you rush and don't get it right you'll end up taking the bike apart!
iii) Most people have the rear suspension set very soft. I'm using a Revo yellow spring and some 10 weight oil. I spoke to James at the weekend and he suggests going to two 1.2mm holes in the shock piston which means you can use oils in the range 30-50 weight.
iv) Rake - start with it out wound right out and adjust from there if necessary.
v) Front forks - on a bumpy track I use about half of the travel for sag. You won't need to touch yours as I've set them for you.
vi) If you are using a TT rear hub then use the spacer without a line around it on the rear axle.
vii) Layshaft - when fitting this make sure you lighly press the spur gear and the sprocket together to remove any 'float'. You may need to add an extra shim as well as the standard two 0.9mm shims. Mine needed an extra 0.5mm shim. Any play on the rear swingarm will upset the handling.
viii) If you are running in superbike don't forget a steering damper. Most 1:10th scale off-road front shock should fit. Be careful with the angle on the shock, if you over tighten the 3mm bolt on the headstock end you can end up with the damper binding the steering.

Any questions - just ask on here as there's plenty of people to help out.

[davr0]

cheers steve..
all built and looking good... forks a little sticky tho when i push down on the bike it wont come back up its self im going to tension the fork springs a little and use a lighter grease inside the tubes

hope to get out tomorrow to test just waiting for front brake

[Adder]

Way to avoid the binding is do as follows:

Pre-checks:
Make sure the legs are all straight and aligned to each other: if they're twisted it'll bind.
Make sure the front axle is not a tight fit between the legs: if it is it'll spread the feet and bind. In this case you need to either grind a fraction from the axle or the side face of the fork foot. The ideal fit is just-loose.
Assuming the above is OK, then assemble the wheel into the forks, making sure there's a tiny bit of side float on the axle spacers. The wheels vary in thickness so if there's not clearance then again it'll bind.

Final assembly:
Tighten up one axle bolt only and pinch up the locking grub screw - bounce the forks and they should be free.
Hand-tighten the other axle bolt and bounce the forks again - if it goes sticky, back the bolt off a fraction until they're smooth again. At this point pinch up the grub screw and they should stay smooth.

Works a treat like this...

For the ultimate Tornado forks, go a for a set of Steve's option aluminium alloy slider legs - they reduce unsprung weight and stiction significantly and are well recommended.

[davr0]

cheers adder nicely explained

[Steve Leake]

David - the springs and grease etc should be just fine. I suspect any binding will be down to the front axle so try adjusting that first.

[davr0]

yup steve your right ............just took a shaving or 2 off the axle as adder said with the lath so it just slips between the fork legs.... 100% now